Friday, September 4, 2009

Ganesh Festival

Last night was the climax of the 11-day Ganesh Festival in Hyderabad -- the night where the largest of the large Ganesh statues are submerged in Hussain Sagar Lake.

The entire area around the lake has a Carnival-like feel.  There are food vendors selling chaat, paan, roasted corn, cotton candy, and ice cream.  Screams of "Welcome to India!" echo like surround sound to the group of expats I'm celebrating the festival with.

You don't have to look hard to spot the Ganeshas -- there are dozens and dozens of them in your frame of vision.  Large trucks carrying Ganeshas pass us, containing 40-50 men riding cargo alongside the giant elephant god.

The men, clearly drunk, are chanting and screaming and gyrating.  They spot us and extend their arms back to hurl something at us as hard as they possibly can.

I cringe and brace myself in anticipation.

And then I laugh.

They are throwing marigold flowers!!

It's definitely quite a sight to see the giant cranes pick up the Ganesha from the truck, hover the statue over the water, then gingerly submerge him in the lake.  Some submersions are more graceful than others.  One Ganesha didn't want to leave, which resulted in the crane needing to shake the statue off...in the process, his elephant face was decapitated, leading to a lot of gasps from the spectators on land.

Though I try to deny it, there is a menacing tone to the event... perhaps it is because of all the talk of potential riots throughout the day, stemming from the recent death of AP's chief minister.  Or something spooky about spectators walking around in animal masks -- a bit like Clockwork Orange.  

But at the same time, there's also an air of celebration, of family, and of defying fears of riots.  Little children point in awe of the giant Ganeshas getting submerged.  There is dancing in the streets. 

I sure am glad I didn't stay home!





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